Thursday, May 7, 2009

RFN # 11, pub. 5/7/09

The Riggs Fulmer Newsletter
No. 11
May 7, 2009


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Retailers and restaurants set pricing; think of the prices below as very educated guesswork- restaurant prices will likely be around double those listed.


Big news, friends, big big news! The Newsletter has finally made the great leap to the internets, or at least found its own apartment there. I am pleased to announce the launch of my new website, The Purple World, which will be an expanded version of the RFN, basically. At this point we’re still in the beta phase, I guess (I’m going to pretend that I know what that means, I heard a computer guy say it once), but it will grow with us all. You will find back issues of the Newsletter, as well as expanded commentary and more detailed tasting notes- at least once I get there! The url is http://riggsfulmerwine.blogspot.com. I look forward to getting an actual big-boy site up and running soon, so stay tuned for that. Until then, the googleverse will have to suffice!

However, this week’s RFN is basically just going to serve as an entrée to The Purple World, as a huge batch of news has just ripened and dropped into my lap… Let’s just say it involves me getting in the ’91 Tercel posthaste, driving to Vancouver, then to Milwaukie, then to Pleasant Hill, and eventually ending up, guitar in hand, outside a brightly-painted bus south of San Francisco. Tough work, but someone’s got to do it, brothers and sisters, and it will be my honor to represent the greater RFN community to the fullest. Unfortunately I’m not really being paid much for my services, so it’s unlikely you’ll get a scintillating review of The Slanted Door or a super-hip SF winebar, but you just might get an article about a strip-mall Thai place. Fingers crossed!

There are big wine things for us to discuss as well, including the amazing Triage tasting from last week, and, of course, the Portland Indie Wine Fest! These events both deserve detailed coverage, which they’ll get next week, but here are a few tidbits to tide you over until then…

From Triage:

2007 Muri-Gries Lagrein Rosato $14 (Südtirol, Italy)
This rosato sees no skin maceration at all- the free-run juice is already pink in color. This wine is actually their traditional wine; they did not make a red Lagrein until recent years, in response to international demand. Made to this day by monks, this little charmer preens with cranberries and summer hay. On the palate its minerality will make you blush, twining around and through blueberries, fresh melon, and mossy stones. Soft, but with excellent lift, this is a wonderful rosé.

2006 Lonardo Grecomusc’ Campania Bianco IGT $27 (Campagna, Italy)
Grecomusc’ (pron. Grek-o-moosh) is an indigenous white grape to the region. This is the first I’ve had, and I shore do hope it ain’t the last! The nose only hints at the sunny opulence below, all sweet papaya skins and banana. Then comes the breathtaking, mouth-watering cascade of galactic minerality, starfruit, and gushing key limes and citron zest. My notes read, “Gorgeous! Say it again! Gorgeous!”

And, from the Indie Wine Fest:

2007 Thistle Wines Pinot Blanc
One of my favorite Oregon whites year after year, and this year is no exception. A celebration of limpid flavors and bright acidity, the nose is alive with lemon meringue and pain grillé. On the palate this flavors continue on, with surprising richness up against a racy spine of rippling minerals and earth. Perfectly balanced.

2007 J. Scott Cellars Viognier
Jonathon Scott has struck out on his own, which is not to say this Vio of his isn’t a home run. Up and over the right field wall at new Yankee Stadium it flies… OK, enough with the baseball metaphors. This is Viognier made with an almost German sensibility, its typical, delicate stonefruit flavors and hit of residual sugar perfectly balanced against wonderful acidity and minerals. But the real beauty is in its airy lightness on the tongue. The bit of sugar is compelling rather than cloying, a perfect foil to spicy Asian cuisine, for instance. Try it with, say, prawns Kung Pao, and you’ll see just what I mean.

All right, friends, I’ve got to get on the road. I can’t say I’m not beside myself with excitement, but I am sorry to cut our time together short. I’ll be back up and running next week, with anecdotes and updates from the great south country, and maybe a review of the Shins’ shows up here at the Crystal Ballroom (their cover of Neil Young’s “Helpless” last night was as lovely a version of that song as I’ve ever heard).

Happy Weekend, here’s wishing you barrels and barrels- nay, botti-full!- of sunshine… And, to those of you in Columbia, South Carolina, who are being graduated this weekend, congratulations- and make sure to watch out for those pesky cell phone cameras! Just ask that Phelps guy…

A più tardi!
yrs,
Riggs

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